BACKSTAGE BEAUTY: DAY 2 MBFWA
Forget threes – good things comes in twos.
Between Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of TOME and Bec & Bridge’s Bec Cooper and Bridget Yorston, sisters Liberty & Somer Watson of Watson x Watson and Tessa & Beth Macgraw of macgraw, day 2 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week saw some of the best designer duos unveil their upcoming spring/summer collections.
While cut out shirts from TOME, ankle-length vests by Watson x Watson and gladiator-style sandals at Bec & Bridge proved to be a hit amongst front-rowers, on the beauty front, hair and makeup game was strong.
Here, we round up some of the hottest looks from Day #2 of MBFWA:
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At TOME, the boys from NYC wanted hair that was androgynous in keeping with their brand ethos. “We wanted it tough, a little bit masculine, and with a modern version of the 50s,” says Jon Pulitano, Hair Director for Redken. “This look is a bit square, wet-looking at the front and a bit boyish.”
Pulitano prepped hair with Redken Rootful 06 on dry hair before creating a very low side part. Next, Redken Forceful 23 hair spray was layered on and diffused using a hair-dryer to give the hair structure. Next, Pulitano used Redken All Soft Argan-6 Oil through the roots and brushed it through to create texture. “It’s all about two textures molding into one – strong and glossy which then evolves into natural, and slightly fluffy looking,” explains Pulitano.
On the models’ faces, Sylvia Plath served as muse. “[The look] is from another time but we’re making it more modern by each girl having a slightly different look,” says Claire Thompson, Makeup Director for MAC. “The basis of the eye is like you’ve had a heavy eye on and you’ve taken it off so just the residue left.” Thompson created a sheen on eye lids using MAC Casual Colour in Have a Lovely Day and MAC Cream Colour Base Pro Palette in Luna before applying MAC Lip Conditioner followed by MAC Lipstick in Lady Danger onto the lips. ” We’ve gone for a colour that goes against the palette of the collection.”
WATSON X WATSON
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The key words of fashion week beauty trends so far: healthy skin. “It’s all about the models looking fresh, glowy and healthy,” says Victoria Curtis, Makeup Director for Curtis Collection. “We amped up the luminosity by adding Curtis Collection Radiant Glow Illuminator into foundation before applying on the skin.” Curtis also strategically placed illuminator onto the upper cheekbones and the bridge of the nose. “We want the eyes and skin to sparkle,” she says. To finish the look, Curtis brushed up and filled in brows for a natural brow using Curtis Collection Brow Tint. “We groomed them but we didn’t let them look ‘done’.”
In keeping with skin, a bronzed glow was applied all over. “We gave the girls a bit of a glow to complete the look using GlowbyBeca Chocolate Ash Self Tan Mousse,” says Rebecca Colalillo, Tanning Expert.
To bring the look together, the brief of effortless beauty extended to strands. “The hair at Watson x Watson reflects an effortless beauty that’s healthy and lifestyle driven, ” says Philip Barwick, Hair Director for Redken. “[She] looks as if she would have shampooed her hair, tied it up while she was doing her make-up and chatting to friends, taken it out just before she goes out – and that’s the result.” To create this look backstage, Barwick prepped hair with Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer to protect from heat styling. To add a gritty texture, Barwick then applied Redken Rootful 06 and Redken Volume Guts 10 until the hair was coated with so much product, it became wet – then it’s blasted dry. “To finish, we brushed it out before tonging the hair in two sections: the top and back,” says Barwick. Seal with Redken Windblown 05 to create that lived in look.
BEC & BRIDGE
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“She’s very cool,” says Alan White, Hair Director for KMS California, of the three luxe looks at Bec & Bridge. “The hair looks lived in as if it’s second day hair but in this case, the hair has moisture and hydration to it. It isn’t necessarily so gritty that it’s become matte,” says White. To create all three looks – tousled waves, half up, half down top knot and a low messy bun, White called upon KMS California Silk Sheen Polishing Serum and a curling tong as his secret weapons. “We want the hair to look healthy, sexy and beautiful but as if she’s done nothing to it.”
Aside from the debut swim pieces, another statement at Bec & Bridge was the tan.”It’s not about changing the skin colour, it’s more about smoothing it and enhancing the colour the girls already have,” says Michael Brown, Skin Finishing Expert for St. Tropez. “We applied St. Tropez Instant Tan Wash Off Face & Body Lotion in Deep – it has a green undertone so it’s great for a deeper tan but we applied it using a mitt so it doesn’t sit on top of the skin but rather looks like real skin. For additional glow, Brown added St. Tropez Skin Illuminator in Gold to highlight the collarbone and places the light would naturally hit to make skin look fresh and healthy-looking.
Nicole Thompson, Makeup Director for MAC, agrees: “For Bec & Bridge, we want the girls to look as though they’ve just rolled out of the Amazon looking amazing.” Adding, it’s about “balmy – not shiny – skin”, Thompson used MAC Face & Body Foundation starting from shade C5 and going darker. “Everybody is C5 plus today. Even if they’re really pale, we’re making them dark.”
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At macgraw, Benni Tognini, Hair Director for Goldwell, reminded us why ponytails are perennially chic. “We wanted the girls’ to look as if they are walking through the fields with the wind in their hair,” says Tognini. To create the ponytail, apply Goldwell Style Style Double Boost and Naturally Full before backcombing sections of hair to get volume. Secure hair into a ponytail at the centre of the back of the head but let it drape over the ears. “It’s soft and fuss-free,” says Tognini.
Continuing on from macgraw’s collection of star prints and floor length lace dresses, Carol Mackie, Makeup Director for MAC, created a feminine makeup look to suit. “We didn’t use a lot of makeup to create this look because we’re keeping it quite raw but there’s a delicate placement of concealer to this look,” says Mackie. “The cheeks are not so much contoured but more flushed on the bottoms of the cheeks – as if the models have been running.” Brows were kept strong and feathery while eyes had a combination of MAC Paint Pot in Layin Low, MAC Cream Colour Base Pro Palette in Pearl and MAC Eye Shadow in Girlie applied onto the eye lids to give it a slightly tougher, more translucent edge.
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At Aje, that word “healthy” was heard being thrown around by makeup artists again. And, in this case, we are glad. “This look is luminous and modern,” says Alphie Sadsad, Makeup Director for Bobbi Brown. “It’s a youth look, which we created b by putting a lot of attention into prepping the skin with skin care first,” says Sadsad. Once skin was cleansed and moisturised, Bobbi Brown Stick Foundation SPF 15 was applied only where necessary. “If the girls didn’t need it, we didn’t use it,” says Sadad. “It’s about treating each model differently as they each have different skin.” On the eyes, Sadad applied Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow in Suede mixed with Bobbi Brown White Brightening Lip Gloss – this was then applied to the top and lower lash line to give the appearance of a lived in, almost sweaty-like eye lid that has now had its eye makeup gather in the crease. “It’s lived in, which is why we ensured skin looked flushed by dabbing Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Powder Pink onto both cheeks and lips.“
Turning to tresses and it was at Aje that another ponytail proved to be a hit. “Aje’s collection is feminine thanks to lighter fabrics and ladylike cuts but there’s also a contrasting heaviness of textures, embellishments and denim,” says Dale Delaporte, C0-Hair Director for Goldwell. “This ponytail frames the face by creating dimension both around and at the back of the head,” says Delaporte.
Kate McQuitty, Co-Hair Director for Goldwell, created the colour work for the runway. “Working the coloured champagne blonde or earthy brunette pieces into the hair (depending on the models’ natural hair colour) adds an extra element to the overall style just as the embellished pieces of the collection add a sense of luxury,” she says.
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Cotton. And, lots of it. Gary Bigeni, who returned to MBFWA after several years’ hiatus, brought us cotton as well as his signature of jersey. The collection of shirts, skirts and day dresses was agreed; it was on point.
So too was the hair. “[It’s] youthful,” says Richard Kavanagh, Hair Director for Redken. “It’s clean, natural and effortlessly cool.” To create the look, Kavanagh prepared hair by applying Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine to the mid-lengths and ends to boost shine and smoothness. Next, Redken Fashion Work 12 was applied to tame fly-aways, give texture and hold. “It’s almost teenage-like hair that looks freshly washed.”
Nigel Stanislaus, Makeup Director for Maybelline New York adds, “We want to create a sense of innoncence and happiness.” Opting for a peachy look, Stanislaus chose a natural, velvety finish for skin. “To start, apply Maybelline New York Dream Wonder Foundation and build to your desired coverage. The eyes, which Stanislaus wanted to look like a jigsaw puzzle piece, were customised to suit each models’ face and eye shape. “We’ve kept the shape round, with semi-rectangular edges and tailored it to each mode,” says Stanislaus who created this using Maybelline New York Colour Tattoo Pure Pigment Eye Shadow in Brash Blue. “It almost looks like a bubble.”
SERPENT & SWAN
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Colour isn’t dead. After recent seasons of countless shows who embraced the “no makeup makeup” look, beauty editors have been overheard praising makeup artists for giving them some colour and inspiration this week. And, inspiration Serpent & Swan gave.
“Tribal is a huge influence for us,” says Kimberly Forbes, Makeup Director for oneninetynine management. “The collection uses white, black and blue – like fossilation found within the sea – so the make-up ties in with that.” For the skin, Forbes applied three to four layers of different moisturisers, as well as cream highlighters and contours. To create the graphic liner look, Forbes chose a series of white and black pigments. To add to the uniqueness of the look, no two lines were the same. “We want the lines to look worn and lived in, just like the lines of a fossil,” explains Forbes, who used thin rope rubbed in pigment and rolled onto the skin to create graphic lines.
Switching to strands and hair was so fresh, it seemed as if models had stepped out of the shower. “We did this by manipulating the hair using O&M Atonic thickening spray and O&M Know Knott leave-in conditioner,” says Koh Tanyawanichapon, Hair Director for O&M. “We then apply O&M Project Sukuroi to the ends to make the hair smooth, but still retain some texture.” After blasting hair dry, run fingers through rather than a brush and voila.