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The Gritty Pretty A-Z guide of beauty ingredients. Wondering WTF is retinol or want to know the difference between AHAs and BHAs? Here, you can discover what every beauty ingredient does, how it works, and whether you should use it.
Extracted from the seeds of almonds, this emollient is packed with vitamins D and E, fatty acids (especially oleic acid) and copper, and helps calm irritated and inflamed skin and protect the skin barrier. One lab study showed that it may also help repair UV damaged skin.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Available in powder, liquid and gel form, this plant extract is popular for its ability to soothe irritated and sunburnt skin (it also has a cooling sensation). It has vitamins (A, C, D and E) and minerals (zinc, magnesium and potassium), and also offers antioxidant and hydrating benefits.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
Derived from milk and fruit sugars, or manufactured synthetically, these chemicals exfoliate the skin by loosening the “glue” that binds dead surface skin cells together. The most common ones used in skincare products are lactic acid and glycolic acid. Lactic acid recalibrates skin to a youthful pH, increases our skin’s natural moisturising factor, thereby hydrating the skin. It also promotes healthy collagen synthesis and regulates pigment production.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
The building blocks of all proteins in the body, including those that make up collagen and elastin. They help keep skin firm and plump, reduce inflammation (thanks to their antioxidant benefits), enhance cellular repair and smooth fine lines.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
Made from the kernels of argan trees, this non-fragrant oil is rich in lipids, antioxidants and fatty acids, and works on normal to dry skin (anti-inflammatory and moisturising), hair (smoothing and imparts shine) and nails (strengthening).
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
With omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins, and particularly rich in oleic acid (>70%) this emollient delivers anti-inflammatory and hydrating benefits, helping skin maintain moisture and reducing the effects of free radical damage. And although more research is needed, lab studies show it could increase collagen synthesis and improve wound healing.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
An anti-bacterial organic peroxide that is very effective at combating acne. It reduces acne-causing bacteria, clarifies pores and reduces sebum secretion. Make sure not to layer too many benzoyl-peroxide products ie cleanser, toner, spot treatments. Very effective acne blasting active available over the counter. Bleaches clothing and sheets so beware.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
These exfoliate the skin and keep blackheads and pimples at bay. Because they’re oil-soluble, they can delve deep into pores and clear them out. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
Not to be confused with Beta Hydroxy Acids, Butylated Hydroxyanisole is made from petroleum and is a commonly used fragrance ingredient. It is banned in Europe due to its carcinogenic and endocrine disrupting properties to humans and environmental toxicity.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
Used by ancient Egyptians (as an immunity booster) and in Ayurvedic medicine. Although this is thicker than most other oils, the payoff is that castor oil is loaded with antioxidant vitamin E and fatty acids, so it can hydrate, soothe and offer anti-inflammatory benefits. It is also antimicrobial. Despite common belief, there’s no proof that it grows lashes or brows – it just conditions them so they don’t break as quickly!
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Found naturally in the top layers of skin, ceramides are lipids that aid in water retention and barrier function. If you think of skin like a brick wall, ceramides are the cement that hold the bricks (skin cells) together, keeping the wall (skin barrier) strong. This keeps moisture in and prevents irritants entering the skin.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
Popular for its calming properties, this flower extract is mainly found in products for sensitive skin, as it can help reduce redness and relieve irritation. Also has a high level of an antioxidant called apigenin which offers protection against environmental damage and premature ageing, and enhances cell regeneration to help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
Derived from a variety of natural sources, this has excellent absorption properties which is why it’s often used in mattifying and pore-refining products. Most popular types include kaolin (gentlest), pink and bentonite clay.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
Commonly found in hair dyes, soaps and shampoos, coal tar is a by-product of coal processing. It is a well-known carcinogen and is banned in Canada and the EU. It can also appear on labels as aminophenol, diaminobenzene and phenylenediamine.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
Extracted from cacao beans, this is a rich emollient full of fatty acids and antioxidants. Commonly used in body products and lip balms, it also has anti-inflammatory properties, and might help with stretch marks and scars (although this evidence is anecdotal – multiple studies have shown no proof of this, but it will soothe the dry, itchy skin that often occurs in pregnancy).
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
This non-fragrant plant oil has a high saturated fatty acid content, which moisturises skin to keep it soft, and linoleic acid, which may help soothe acneic skin (but may also induce breakouts, so proceed with caution). Most widely used as a cleanser or makeup remover.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
These protein fibres provide structural support to skin, keeping it firm and strong. Collagen naturally breaks down over time (UV damage speeds that process along), and there’s no evidence that topical collagen application can stimulate new production (although ingredients like retinol can).
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
A combination of copper and amino acids found naturally in our blood, early research has this antioxidant helping with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, textural issues, collagen and elastin production and inflammation. More promising are its wound healing powers, and it can even help out with our body’s own antioxidant mechanisms.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
Distilled from the leaf, this oil has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, but as a fragranced oil, it may cause irritation. For the face, proceed with caution and always dilute in a carrier oil, or save it for body use (add some drops to a bath) or inhalation to ease cold and flu symptoms.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
A plant-based antioxidant that can help protect against environmental damage (UV rays, pollution and infrared radiation) and slow down the associated signs of premature ageing like fine lines and wrinkles, brown spots and pigmentation, and collagen breakdown. Usually paired with vitamin C and E, as it helps stabilise them.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
Banned in the US, Canada, Europe, Brazil and Australia, formaldehyde (sometimes substituted for methylene glycol) is found in nail polish, hair straightening treatments and eyelash glue and is a known carcinogen.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
The term fragrance or parfum listed on an ingredients list of a product represents over 3,000 different synthetic chemicals (including phthalates and phenoxyethanol). The term was originally created to hide a companies “unique formula” but it also means that companies don’t need to disclose the exact combination or chemicals used in the product.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
A mainstay in K-Beauty formulas, this plant extract is packed with vitamins and minerals that deliver antioxidant benefits to skin (like protection against environmental aggressors), and it can help improve cellular repair, enhance immunity and circulation, decrease inflammation and inhibit melanin production.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
Naturally present in skin and helpful to all skin types, this humectant (or water-grabbing molecule) keeps the skin’s moisture levels balanced. Colourless and odourless plant sources of glycerin are widely used in moisturisers, to help replenish and restore skin, so it looks and feels healthy.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
An alpha hydroxy acid (see above) derived from sugar cane, this dissolves the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, to help exfoliate the skin’s surface and give it a smoother, brighter appearance. Its low molecular weight means it can deeply penetrate skin and help stimulate collagen production, too. Take extra care with sun protection though as using GA anywhere in your routine makes skin more prone to sunburn (this resolves around 1 week after you stop using it).
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
This green tea leaf extract has multiple skin benefits - antioxidant (it neutralises free radical damage), balancing, reducing puffiness (it contains caffeine) and anti-inflammatory (it is soothing) - and some research suggests it might also help improve the appearance of sun damage, due to the photo-protective properties of EGCG.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
Pressed from the seeds of the cannabis sativa plant, this delivers omega fatty acids, amino acids, vitamin E (an antioxidant) and minerals, to help reduce inflammation and keep skin healthy and balanced. Vital for skin barrier maintenance. Especially useful for acne-prone or combination skin.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
Naturally present in the skin, this sugar molecule boosts skin’s moisture content and minimises water loss. It can hold up to 1000x its weight in water, and help push water into skin for deeper hydration. Usually found in serums and moisturisers, hyaluronic acid is one of the few ingredients that works for practically all skin types.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
A light and fragrance-free plant oil (technically, it’s a liquid wax ester), this has a similar consistency to skin’s natural oil, which means it can dive deep to hydrate the skin (thanks to its high concentration of fatty acids) without clogging it (it’s not as greasy as some other skincare oils). Also used as a makeup remover.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
A by-product of the rice fermentation process used to make sake, and popular in J-Beauty, this inhibits melanin production, helping fade dark spots, melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and brighten and even out skin tone. Also has antioxidant benefits.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
An alpha hydroxy acid (see above) extracted from fermented milk, this exfoliator helps shift the dead skin cells that can lead to a rough and dull appearance, and, because it only works on the surface level and doesn’t penetrate as deeply as other acids, is usually gentle enough for sensitive skin.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
An oil derived from shorn sheep wool, this thick emollient deeply hydrates and rejuvenates dry, chapped and damaged skin. It can hold up to twice its weight in water, so it also helps lock in moisture. Commonly found in balms, creams and lip products.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
This exfoliating ingredient comes from apples, and dissolves the bonds between dead cells on the outermost layer of the skin. It is technically a BHA but it’s not oil-soluble, so works like an AHA. What you need to know: malic acid is a gentle ingredient and best-suited to those with sensitive skin that is prone to irritation.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
A type of AHA (see Alpha Hydroxy Acid above) derived from almonds, mandelic acid helps to exfoliate skin by gently loosening the “glue” that binds dead surface skin cells together. It is similar to glycolic acid (another popular AHA) but more gentle as it is a larger molecule and therefore slower to penetrate into the skin.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
A honey only produced in Australian and New Zealand [4], it has potent antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory (more so than other types of honey) benefits, and promotes both effective and faster wound healing. It’s also a natural humectant, so it draws moisture to the skin and keeps it there.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Extracted from the fruit of the African marula tree, this oil is packed with essential fatty acids, amino acids and antioxidants (vitamins C and E), that help lock in moisture, deliver anti-inflammatory benefits and ward off collagen and elastin breakdown. It absorbs quickly and can have a slightly nutty scent.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
Microbeads are tiny pieces of plastic (5μm to 1mm in size) that do not dissolve in water which are commonly found in exfoliators, toothpastes and rinse-off skincare products. The US banned the use of microbeads in 2017 and as part of the 2019 National Waste Policy Action Plan Australia committed to phasing out the use of microbeads in rinse-off products but they are still used around the world in cosmetics and cleaning products.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
A common and widely used skincare ingredient, mineral oil is a clear, odourless oil that locks moisture into the skin (it’s one of the most effective known occlusive ingredients!). It is derived from petroleum, but the skincare-grade is highly purified and safe. Best for dry skin types. It is not comedogenic, although those with oily, acne-prone skin will not enjoy its greasy feel.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Not all heroes wear capes! Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a skincare powerhouse: it helps to improve the barrier function of the skin, reduce pore size, calm acne, fade pigmentation, minimise redness, prevent dehydration and promote a youthful glow. The real question: what can’t it do?
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
An active ingredient often commonly found in sunscreen, octinoxate helps to protect skin against sun damage, primarily from UVB rays. Questions have been raised about whether octinoxate is an ‘endocrine disruptor’ but at this time, there is no conclusive evidence. In fact, there’s more of a hormonal effect from spearmint tea - feel free to slip slop slap in peace.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
Omega fatty acids, including Omega 3,6, 7 and 9, are very beneficial to dry skin types. Omegas deeply hydrate skin while also strengthening the skin barrier and protecting against environmental damage.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
One of the most popular chemical filters in sunscreen, oxybenzone protects your skin by absorbing UV radiation. Oxybenzone was one of two ingredients banned in Hawaii in 2018 for its potential environmental impacts on coral reefs.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Palm oil is used in 70 per cent of personal care products, it is used as a setting agent and helps products achieve that creamy texture. The product of palm oil has a significant impact on the environment, the equivalent of 300 football fields is cleared every hour to make way for palm oil plantations.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
The most commonly used preservative made from petroleum, Parabens are used to keep formulas stable and prevent bacteria and microbes from growing in beauty products. Parabens are a known endocrine disruptor that mimic estrogen in the body, studies have linked parabens to breast cancer and environmental toxicity. They can also be labelled on products as methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and isobutylparaben.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
See Fragrance.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
Peptides and polypeptides are amino acid chains of various lengths. Peptides communicate with surrounding cells to boost skin-restoring processes. The result? Less inflammation, fine lines and wrinkles, and more collagen.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
One of the beauty industries most multipurpose products, petroleum jelly is a by-product of the processing of petroleum for plastics, it can be listed as mineral oil, paraffin and petrolatum. The formulation has barely changed since its invention in 1859.
Fact checked by Lottie Dalziel, Director of Banish
A class of chemical used as plasticisers (added to plastics to soften them), phthalates are commonly found in food packaging and plastics. Phthalates with potential adverse effects have been phased out of cosmetics in Australia. They were previously used to extend the longevity of a scent, or to help nail polish resist chipping.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
A (buzzy new!) hydrating ingredient, polyglutamic acid is a humectant that performs a function similar to hyaluronic acid. It is a moisture magnet and hydrates skin by drawing in water. Tolerated by most (after doing a patch test), if you have thirsty skin, polyglutamic acid is safe to apply morning and night.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
PHAs, including gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic acid, are exfoliating acids, similar to AHAs and BHAs and work by exfoliating dead cells from the skin’s surface. PHAs are less sensitising than their AHA and BHA counterparts, meaning they are ideal for sensitive skin types.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Derived from grapes and also found in red wine, resveratrol is an antioxidant powerhouse. Applied topically, it protects against environmental stressors and free radical damage, leading to smoother skin, increased firmness and less fine lines and wrinkling.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
A hero walks amongst us! Retinol is a dermatologist favourite – and for good reason, too. Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, found in our bodies and many foods, too.. This powerful ingredient is an anti-ageing powerhouse; it restores, firms, smooths and repairs. A word of warning: patch test first and introduce retinol-based products slowly to avoid irritation.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
One of the most popular facial oils, rosehip oil contains Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) to nourish skin, moisturise and promote wound healing.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
See Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA). Salicylic acid is the most common BHA used in skincare.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
A naturally-derived ingredient packed with antioxidants to soften skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Seaweed also has skin-soothing properties and can speed up the healing process of cuts, abrasions and rashes. (Fun fact: seaweed tastes great on a poke bowl.)
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
Often found in face and body moisturisers, shea butter is a rich emollient. It’s derived from the shea nut tree, native to central, west, and east Africa.. Smoothed onto skin, it is deeply hydrating and contains skin-replenishing fatty acids.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
Better known as SLS, sodium lauryl sulfate is a surfactant commonly used in body wash, hand wash and shampoo to create a foaming effect. It is safe but can be harsh on skin. Recently, sodium laureth sulfate has emerged as a gentler alternative.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
Squalene is a colourless, naturally occurring lipid in human sebum and other species. It is an oily triterpenoid hydrocarbon that lubricates and protects the skin. Squalance is a derivative of squalene which is much lighter and more stable. Hence its use in skincare products. Squalane works to trap moisture, forming a fortitude antioxidant barrier of the skin. Squalene is a nourishing oil that is derived from shark liver or olives.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
Sulfates are surfactants (read: detergents) commonly found in beauty and cleaning products that help the liquid lather into a foam. Research is underway to further understand its environmental impact as it has been linked to decreased soil health and toxicity in waterways.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
An old faithful! Tea tree oil is an essential oil sourced from the leaves of the Australian Melaleuca tree. It can usually be found as part of a skincare formula for blemish-prone skin. Tea tree oil helps to nix acne-causing bacteria and fungus. A word of warning: tea tree oil should always be diluted and never used alone.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
Delicious as part of a turmeric latte! Applied to skin, however, turmeric has an anti-inflammatory effect and helps to soothe inflamed skin (think: scarring, puffiness, redness). Mix with honey to create a DIY mask but don’t use it too often, as turmeric can stain skin.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
So good they named it twice! Vitamin B3 = niacinamide. See niacinamide for the full run down.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
One of the most lauded ingredients in skincare, vitamin C comes in many forms, ascorbic acid being the most popular. This potent antioxidant fades dark spots to brighten skin and protects against environmental damage. Key active in the production of collagen and potent antioxidant. Best when combined with Vitamin E.The downside? Vitamin C can be unstable: look for products in powder form or opaque bottles and air-restrictive packaging to prolong the shelf life.
Fact checked by Dr Shyamalar Gunatheesan, Consultant Dermatologist BMedSc, MBBS, FACD
If your mum always reached for vitamin E infused skincare when you were a kid, tell her she was onto something. Vitamin E is naturally occurring in the human body and has a deeply nourishing, soothing and rejuvenating effect on skin. It’s also a great antioxidant, and helps preserve other ingredients when formulated together. More is more.
Fact checked by Hannah English, B Pharm Sci (Hons), Skincare Expert & Digital Creator
A Kardashian favourite (Khloe swears by it), witch hazel has long been used as a toner in skincare, thanks to its ability to tighten pores. Just FYI: repeated use can have a sensitising effect on skin thanks to witch hazel’s high tannin content.
Fact checked by Dr Michele Squire, PhD BSc BBus RN, Founder of Qr8 MediSkin
This natural mineral provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB sun protection and is a key ingredient in physical sunscreen (in its purest form it is thick, like the sunscreens of your youth). Zinc also has a soothing effect on skin and can be beneficial for both acne and inflamed skin.
Fact checked by Dr Joseph Hkeik, MB.BS FFMACCS FRACGP, Director and Founder, All Saint Clinic and Le Petit Saint
